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The Latest News:

Samyang’s New AF 24-60mm f/2.8 FE Lens

credits: Samyang

Samyang has announced development of a new AF 24-60mm f/2.8 lens, its second collaboration with German optics maker Schneider-Kreuznach. The lens follows last year’s AF 14-24mm f/2.8 FE, which stood out as the first front-filter-compatible ultra-wide zoom for Sony E-mount. With the new 24-60mm, Samyang is moving into the standard zoom range, where it will go up against similar lenses already available for other mounts.

Details are still pretty limited, but Samyang says the 24-60mm f/2.8 will strike a balance between portability and performance, aiming to stay compact and lightweight without cutting corners on image quality. The company is pitching it as part of its “Compact High-Performance Zooms” philosophy, pairing it with the 14-24mm f/2.8 to form a more rounded lineup for photographers and video shooters who want bright, versatile zooms without carrying too much bulk. With Schneider-Kreuznach involved again, expectations are high for great optics and solid build quality.

There is no word yet on pricing or availability. Samyang will show the lens publicly for the first time at this week’s IBC Amsterdam expo, much like they did with the 14-24mm earlier this year at CP+. That lens wasn’t officially announced until a month later and didn’t reach Europe and America until mid-summer under the Rokinon brand. If Samyang follows a similar timeline, the AF 24-60mm f/2.8 likely won’t hit shelves until late 2025, but we will see!

You can see full details and the press release on dpreview’s website here

DJI’s Upcoming Mini 5 Pro Drone

credits: DJI

Leaks and rumours around DJI’s upcoming Mini 5 Pro are picking up, and it looks like the new drone could be a pretty big step up from the current Mini 4 Pro. According to reports, DJI will officially unveil the Mini 5 Pro on September 18th, positioning it once again as the top model in the sub-250-gram category.

The biggest change is a new front-facing LiDAR radar system, which should significantly improve obstacle avoidance compared to the previous generation. The camera setup also sees a big jump, with a 1-inch sensor paired to a 24mm f/1.8 lens and a 48mm telephoto mode. That sensor would make the Mini 5 Pro one of the most powerful small drones on the market for both photo and video, capable of shooting 4K at 120 frames per second. The gimbal is also said to support 225 degrees of rotation, giving you more creative flexibility in flight.

On the performance side, DJI is rumored to be upgrading the motors and introducing a new, larger battery. Standard flight time should come in around 36 minutes, with an extended battery pushing that to 52 minutes. Range is expected to reach 25 kilometers. Despite these upgrades, the Mini 5 Pro is still expected to weigh just 249 grams, keeping it under the key weight threshold in many regions.

You can see leaked photos of the drone on photorumor’s website here

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Weekly Photo Technique Exploration

Welcome to a new section of the magazine where every week we will explore a new photography technique from across various photography genres.

This week’s technique: Trichrome Photography

credits: Ilford

What Is Trichrome Photography?

Trichrome photography is a way of creating colour photographs using only black-and-white images. Sounds a little odd, yes, but here is how it works: you take three separate photos of the same scene, each one through a different colour filter—> red, green, and blue. Later, you combine those three filtered shots into one full-color image.

This method goes way back to the late 1800s, when photographers didn’t yet have true colour film. They would use trichrome to create colour prints by carefully aligning three separate exposures. It’s slow and a bit fiddly, but it lets you build real colour from scratch and the results can have this cool vintage + almost surreal quality.

How It Works

  1. Take three photos of the same scene.
    Each one is shot through a different filter: red, green, and blue. The filters block out all other colours, so you are basically recording the brightness of just that one channel.

  2. Combine them later.
    Once you have your three black-and-white images, you line them up and assign each one to its corresponding channel in editing (red, green, blue). When combined, they form a full-colour photo.

  3. The tricky part:
    Because you are shooting three separate frames, anything moving in your scene will appear misaligned or create rainbow-like “ghosting” (you can see it in the tree of the photo up top). This can be a problem, or it can be part of the charm if you lean into it creatively.

Gear You Need

  • A digital or film camera that lets you shoot in full manual mode.

  • Colour filters (red, green, blue). You can buy photographic filters or even experiment with gels.

  • A tripod, because you need your frames to line up as perfectly as possible.

  • Editing software like Photoshop, GIMP, or Affinity Photo to combine the images.

Camera Settings

  • Manual mode: Lock in your exposure so it doesn’t shift between shots.

  • Aperture: Something mid-range, like f/5.6–f/8.

  • ISO: Keep it at 100–200.

  • Shutter speed: Will vary depending on the light and filter strength, but aim for evenly exposed frames.

How to Do It (Step by Step)

  1. Mount your camera on a tripod and compose your shot.

  2. Place the red filter on your lens and take the first photo.

  3. Swap to the green filter, take the second photo.

  4. Swap to the blue filter, take the third photo.

  5. In post, open all three images. Assign each one to its proper RGB channel (red photo to red channel, etc.). When you merge them, you will have a colour image.

Challenges & Creative Possibilities

  • As noted before, If anything moves (clouds, trees, people), it will create misaligned colour fringes. This can be frustrating or it can give you interesting rainbow-like effects.

  • The filters you use matter. Cheap gels may not block colours cleanly, which can make your final image a little off. Again, sometimes that’s part of the fun.

  • Some photographers intentionally shoot busy, moving scenes (like city streets) so the colour fringing becomes the whole point of the image.

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