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The Latest News:
OM System’s Upgraded 100-400mm f/5-6.3 Lens

cc: OM System
OM System just dropped an updated version of its 100-400mm f/5-6.3 IS lens, and while it looks the same as the 2020 model, it comes with better image stabilization and improved weather sealing.
It still gives you a 200-800mm full-frame equivalent range, and with a 2x teleconverter, you can stretch that to a wild 1600mm. The biggest upgrade? It now supports Sync IS, giving up to 7 stops of stabilization when paired with compatible cameras. Even on its own, the in-lens IS is better, offering 4.5 stops compared to 3 on the original.
Size-wise, it's still compact for a super-telephoto: 8.1 inches long, around 2.9 lbs with the tripod foot, and takes 72mm filters. Close-up performance remains solid with a 0.57x equivalent magnification at 400mm, but using a teleconverter will drop the max aperture to f/13. The price stays the same at $1,499.99 in the U.S. and $2,099.99 in Canada, with availability set for late February.
An Instagram Alternative for Photographers?

cc: Flashes
A new photo-sharing app called Flashes just launched in beta, and thousands of users jumped on it right away. The app is closely tied to Bluesky, the decentralised social platform.
For now Flashes lets users share up to four photos per post. It works as a Bluesky client, meaning posts show up on both platforms, and Bluesky users can comment on Flashes posts. The app also pulls in photos and videos from Bluesky, letting users switch between their Bluesky feed and Flashes.
The beta launch had some hiccups—running on Apple’s TestFlight, it briefly shut down before reopening, but all 3,000 tester spots filled up fast. The interface feels familiar, with Instagram-style double taps for likes and pinch-to-zoom (both optional). An Android version is in the works, but for now, it's iOS-only.
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Weekly Photo Technique Exploration
Welcome to a new section of the magazine where every week we will explore a new photography technique from across various photography genres.
This week’s technique: Infrared Photography

Michiel Alleman

David Mc Elwee
What Is Infrared Photography?
Infrared (IR) photography captures light beyond the visible spectrum—specifically, infrared wavelengths. Regular cameras block most of this light, but with the right setup, you can create surreal, high-contrast images that look like they’re from another planet.
How to Shoot Infrared Photos
Use an Infrared Filter/a Converted Camera
IR Filters (like the Hoya R72) block visible light and only let infrared light through. These work on most cameras but require long exposures since so little light gets in.
Converted IR Cameras: Some cameras can be modified to remove the IR-blocking filter, allowing you to shoot infrared without long exposures.
Shoot in Bright Sunlight
Infrared works best in midday sunlight, when there’s a ton of IR light bouncing around.
Green foliage reflects IR light, making trees and grass turn white or glowing.
Blue skies absorb IR, making them look dark blue/black.
Use Manual Focus
Most cameras struggle with autofocus in infrared, so switch to manual focus.
Some lenses produce "hot spots" (weird bright spots in the center), so test different ones, gotta get a little lucky.
Adjust Your Camera Settings
Shoot in RAW (as always) for maximum flexibility.
Use long exposures (if using an IR filter)—start at 10-30 seconds and adjust as needed.
Set a custom white balance (point your camera at grass/leaves and set it as the reference).
Edit for the Best Results
IR photos come out looking red/magenta—fix this (or not) in post-processing.
Swap the red and blue channels in Photoshop to turn skies blue and foliage white (the classic IR look) or leave it magenta, also an incredible look in my opinion.
Play a little with contrast and sharpness to enhance the dreamlike quality.