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The Latest News:
New Leica M EV1 Camera Leaks
Camera mockup
Fresh leaks about Leica’s upcoming M EV1 camera have popped up. According to multiple reliable sources, it is expected to be officially announced around October 23, 2025, with shipping starting sometime in November. Production is already underway, and this camera is a pretty major step for Leica, since it will be the first M-series camera with a built-in electronic viewfinder.
That new EVF is said to be a 0.5-inch, 5.76-megapixel panel with 0.76x magnification, plus focus aids and diopter adjustment. Leica has also added a new function button and updated the classic frame selector lever, which now has extra controls for the viewfinder. The front design is minimal (no rangefinder window this time ) and the body has a diamond-pattern leatherette. Inside, it is built around a full-frame BSI sensor with triple-resolution options (60, 36, or 18 megapixels), powered by the Maestro III processor and backed by 64GB of internal memory. It will also support Leica Content Credentials, a digital authenticity system that helps verify images straight from the camera.
Pricing is about what you would expect from Leica. The M EV1 is rumoured to cost €7,950 in Europe (around $9,300 USD), $75,000 HKD in Hong Kong, and likely over $10,000 in the U.S. once tariffs are factored in. There is no word yet on a silver version, but given Leica’s usual pattern, that will probably show up a bit later.
The Biwin Amber CB500 CFexpress Card
credits: Biwin
Biwin has released the Amber CB500, the first CFexpress Type B card to officially earn VPG800 certification from the CompactFlash Association. In plain terms, that means the card guarantees a minimum sustained write speed of 800 MB/s, even when you are shooting long takes or pushing heavy data loads. Biwin also claims peak speeds of up to 3,750 MB/s read and 3,500 MB/s write.
The Amber CB500 comes in sizes ranging from 128GB to 1TB, though for now you will only find the 256GB (€229.99) and 512GB (€399.99) versions on Amazon. The cards are clearly aimed more towards people working with high-res formats like 6K or 8K RAW, where consistent write speeds are important. That VPG800 certification basically means you can rely on the card to keep up with demanding video workflows without dropped frames or sudden slowdowns.
The VPG800 standard itself is pretty new, it only launched back in March 2025, and many existing VPG400 cards are expected to qualify for the higher certification level once retested, but for now, Biwin’s Amber CB500 is the first officially recognised card to meet it.
You can see full details on Biwin’s website here
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Weekly Photo Technique Exploration
Welcome to a new section of the magazine where every week we will explore a new photography technique from across various photography genres.
This week’s technique: Stroboscopic Flash Photography
What Is Stroboscopic Flash Photography?
In simple terms: instead of firing once, your flash fires multiple times during a single long exposure. Each flash burst freezes your subject in a new position, and all those bursts get recorded in one photo.
How It Works
You set your camera for a long exposure (say, one or two seconds), and then set your flash to stroboscopic mode, most speedlights have a setting called “Multi” or “Stroboscopic.”
This now lets you control three key things:
Frequency (Hz) —> how many times the flash fires per second.
Number of flashes —> how many total pops happen during the exposure.
Flash power —> how bright each flash is (lower power = shorter bursts, so you can fit more flashes in).
So, for example, if your flash is set to 5 Hz and 10 flashes, that means it will fire 10 times over 2 seconds (5 pops per second) and each pop will obviously freeze your subject in a slightly different spot/position (so make sure your subject actually moves).
How to Shoot It
Get a dark environment.
You want a mostly black background so only the flash exposures show up. A very dark room (ideal) or shooting during the night works well.
Use a tripod.
You will be doing long exposures, so you have to keep the camera locked down.
Set your exposure.
Start around 1–2 seconds, f/8, ISO 100. You can obviously adjust later, but that is a good, general start.
Set your flash to “Multi” mode.
Then pick your frequency and number of flashes (as explained above).
Kill all ambient light.
You do not want ghost trails from other light, the only light should be from your flash (depending on what subject you are shooting, turning the lights completely off can be more or less a challenge).
Have your subject move through the frame.
Each flash will freeze your subject mid-motion. They can jump, spin, throw something, or just walk across —> anything with motion.
Tips That Make a Big Difference
Lower flash power = faster bursts. At 1/32 or 1/64 power, flashes can pop rapidly without overheating.
Keep your subject close to the flash. The light does drop off quickly, so staying within a few feet helps.
Use manual focus, because autofocus will just ‘‘hunt’’ in the dark.
Experiment! Change the shutter speed and flash frequency to see what gives the best motion rhythm and what fits/works best for the subject.
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