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The Latest News:

Sigma’s New ART 35mm f/1.2 DG DN II Lens Leaked

credits: Sigma

Sigma is gearing up to launch a second-generation version of its popular 35mm f/1.2 DG DN Art lens for Sony E and Leica L mounts, and leaks suggest it’s arriving soon. Photos started circulating online showing a clear size comparison between the current model and the upcoming one, and the new version looks noticeably more compact. Reports say the updated lens will shrink by about one centimetre in length and go from an 82mm to a 72mm filter thread, which should help reduce weight too. Sigma’s CEO Kazuto Yamaki confirmed at CP+ 2025 that the 35mm f/1.2 DG DN Art II is in development and will launch sometime this year.

The original 35mm f/1.2, released in 2019, has been praised for its image quality and wide aperture, but it’s a bit of a tank, over a kilo in weight and 136mm long. With the new version, Sigma seems to be taking cues from its more recently released 50mm f/1.2 DG DN Art, which is lighter and sleeker while still delivering top-tier performance. Even though we haven’t seen a full spec sheet yet, Sigma promises improvements in optical performance, particularly in sharpness and the handling of aberrations. It’s also expected to carry Sigma’s refreshed branding.

This isn’t a new thing for Sigma. Just last year, the company released an updated 24–70mm f/2.8 DG DN Art II that was about 10% lighter and offered improved image quality and close-focusing performance. The 35mm f/1.2 seems to be next in line. And with stock of the original E-mount version drying up at major retailers, all signs point to an official announcement just around the corner.

You can see the leaked image on Sonyalpharumour’s website here

Fujifilm’s Latest Infrared Cameras

credits: Fujifilm

Fujifilm has quietly launched two new specialised cameras: the GFX100 II IR and the X-H2 IR. These are infrared versions of Fujifilm’s flagship medium-format and APS-C cameras, designed to see beyond the visible spectrum and capture light that standard sensors simply can’t. Like the original GFX100 IR released in 2020, these new models ditch the standard IR-cut filter that usually blocks infrared wavelengths from hitting the sensor. The result? Cameras that can reveal otherwise invisible details in documents, artwork, pigments, and even landscapes.

With no IR-cut filter, these cameras are exposed to a broader spectrum of light, specifically infrared wavelengths beyond 780 nanometers. Used with specialized IR filters, they can uncover faded text, analyze aged paintings, or expose tampered areas on documents. Fujifilm emphasizes their use in digitizing historical artifacts and forensic investigations, where subtle variations invisible to the naked eye can make all the difference. And with Pixel-Shift Multi-Shot capabilities, the GFX100 II IR can produce up to 400MP images, while the X-H2 IR reaches 160MP.

If you’re hoping to grab one, here’s the catch: these cameras won’t be hitting your local camera shop. Fujifilm is only selling them under a special agreement, similar to what they did with the first GFX100 IR. You’ll need to apply through Fujifilm directly, and the price hasn’t been disclosed. Of course, if you're just curious about IR photography, third-party options like Kolari Vision offer full-spectrum conversions (including GFX and X-H2 mods) so there are still lots of more ‘‘accessible’’ ways to explore beyond the visible.

You can see full details and sample shots on Fujirumour’s website here

Weekly Photo Technique Exploration

Welcome to a new section of the magazine where every week we will explore a new photography technique from across various photography genres.

This week’s technique: Freelensing

What Is Freelensing?

Freelensing (sometimes called the “lens whack” technique) is when you disconnect your lens from your camera and hold it slightly away from the mount while shooting. That tiny gap between the lens and camera lets light sneak in and shifts the plane of focus, creating soft, dreamy images with wild blur and shallow depth of field.

Why Use It?

  • To get dreamy, film-like effects in-camera

  • To create artistic blur and light leaks and tilt shift effects

  • For super shallow depth of field and selective focus

  • Because it’s a fun way to break the rules and surprise yourself and experiment

What You Need

  • A DSLR or mirrorless camera

  • A manual focus lens, ideally something like a 50mm f/1.8

  • A willingness to experiment and maybe get a little dust on your sensor (we’ll talk about that in a second)

A little tip: Don't use your best or most expensive lens for this. You’re going to be exposing it to air and dust (if you are very flimsy you might even drop it), so stick with a “beater” lens you don’t mind handling a bit roughly.

How to Actually Do It

  1. Detach the lens from your camera.

  2. Hold the lens just in front of the mount, keeping it close but not locked in.

  3. Tilt the lens around while looking through the viewfinder or screen. You’ll start to see the focus shift in interesting ways.

  4. Adjust distance and tilt to control which parts of the image are in focus.

  5. Shoot in manual mode and focus manually, autofocus won’t work.

  6. If possible, use Live View, it’ll help you see what’s going on without mashing your face to the viewfinder.

You’ll probably get some light leaks and vignetting, and focus might be razor-thin in some spots. That’s part of the charm.

What to Watch Out For

  • Dust – Your sensor is exposed during this, so try to avoid windy or dusty environments. Clean your gear after.

  • Lens drops – You’re holding your lens with one hand and your camera with the other. Be careful!

  • Light leaks – Intentional, but they can be strong depending on the angle and ambient light.

  • Exposure – With modern cameras, your light meter might freak out. Use trial and error or check your histogram.

Freelensing Tips

  • Start with a 50mm lens. It’s a good, flexible focal length.

  • Shoot wide open (f/1.8, f/2) (Shallow depth of field really enhances the effect).

  • Try it for portraits, nature or street scenes.

  • Lean into the imperfections. Don’t fight the blur or light leaks. That’s the whole point.

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